A Week in Italy: Johnell’s Pre-Fall 2026 Market Recap

Last week, I had the privilege of traveling to Italy for the Pre-Fall 2026 market visits, meeting with some of the most iconic and innovative luxury menswear brands in the world—Kiton, Canali, Marco Pescarolo, Baldassari, MooRER, Jacob Cohen, Filippo Dellaurentis, Colombo, and Berwich. These visits are always a blend of craftsmanship, creativity, and inspiration—an inside look at where fashion is headed before it ever hits the runway or showroom. And this season, one thing is clear: classic style is making a powerful, modern comeback.

The biggest trend I saw across nearly every collection. The return of the overcoat. Italian brands are bringing back this timeless piece with purpose—luxurious, structured, and full of personality. Whether it was KITON’s cashmere blends, CANALI’s sleek double-breasted silhouettes, or MOORER’s elevated technical versions, overcoats are reclaiming their role as the centerpiece of a man’s fall wardrobe. Think bigger lapels, longer lengths, and a sense of quiet confidence.

Another standout theme was shape and proportion. Across the board—whether it was tailored trousers from BERWICH, denim from JACOB COHEN, or the beautifully finished pants from MARCO PESCAROLO—we’re seeing fuller silhouettes and the return of pleated pants. And this isn’t just for dress trousers. Pleats and volume are showing up in jeans and casual styles too, giving menswear a relaxed yet refined elegance. It’s this effortless Italian ease—comfort without compromise—that I think our clients are going to love.

When it comes to color, camel is leading the pack for Fall 2026. From coats at BALDASSARI to knits at FILIPPO DELLAURENTIS and outerwear from COLOMBO, the hue was everywhere. Rich, warm, and sophisticated, camel is the new neutral pairing beautifully with deep browns, navy, charcoal, and even winter white. It’s classic, versatile, and undeniably luxurious.

What struck me most from this trip was how every brand, while distinctly unique, aligned in their message: menswear is embracing heritage—but reimagined for modern living. Luxurious fabrics, tailored ease, understated elegance, and clothing meant to be lived in, not just worn.

As always, Italy delivered not just in fashion, but in inspiration—reminding me why craftsmanship, tradition, and thoughtful design will always be at the heart of great style.